Freedom Hill - Bella Coola Valley

Day 2 - Sept 26, 2009

In these pictures:
Jennifer Hamilton
Lorne DeWolf

Leaving the cozy little cabin at Fletcher Lake (Big Creek), we headed north a half an hours drive on Lee Creek Road, to Hanceville. Just as we connected with Hwy 20 West, we came into a beautiful river valley.

The Chilko and the Chilcotin rivers meet just after Alexis Creek (Bull Canyon). The Chilko is a world famous fishing and White Water Rafting destination (for the serious at heart, although, for fishing, the river is very regulated, so check your regs before you leave). The Chilko River runs NE from Chilko Lake.

We drove west across the Chilcotin Plateau (Chilcotin River) to Anahim Lake (Rainbow Range) - which is the start of the journey to the pass 43 K away (Heckman Pass), and then the decline into the Bella Coola valley - I believe that last stretch is 23 km downhill.

Dirt Road from Anahim over the pass - approx 70 k to Atnarko. The last 23 K of that is down from 5000 ft to the valley, 18% grades at places.

The road is named Freedom Hill by the local residents who built it themselves - back in 1959; one piece of heavy duty equipment going up, another going down until Anahim and the Valley below met somewhere in the middle.

A lot of stories have been passed along about that time - it's history, the economic and communication link to the interior communities, that until the road was built, had been cut off by the unpassable mountain terrain (1959).

Traveller's today are still both fascination with the road, and weary in fear of it. I have (with Lorne) been on many road's like this, many times - but nothing quite so long in it's decline and continuous steep grades. There is not much escaping fate if something goes wrong - no run away lane here, just a rock face my friend (that should stop you).

The road was a little washboardy. So when your going downhill, it is recommended low gear all the way - use brakes as little as possible). Hauling loads use trailer brakes or exhaust brake. And take breaks to cool down brakes - is recommended for those not use to steep grades and application of the above. I hear it's best in the winter (oh my LOL - not for me, thanks)...It was easy going up, and I suppose locals are right, once you've survived the first venture, it would be easier the next.

Once you get to the bottom of the hill, you once again travel on paved roads. Your approximately 74 K from Bella Coola, but you are, at this point, in the Bella Coola (coastal) Valley. The scenery is very different - plush greens typical of coastal climates. (little overcast, usually - more humidity, big cedars and moss)

At the bottom, (Atnarko) still in Tweedsmuir Park, host several recreational sites and camping all along the Hwy.
Huntlen Falls - Atnarko Slough (fisheries Pool, Tweedsmuir Lodge.
Hagensborg is 57 K
Bella Coola is 74 K

Firvale is just down the road from Atnarko, 36k (before Natsum...River). You will see plenty of glacier views here (on a nice day) if you take your time and pull over carefully with a zoom lens, you should get some stunning shots. In these pictures, we did not - most of the days pictures were taken between 10 kph and 80 kph, and it was after 6 pm when we found an available cabin. (we had long since retired the thought of camping).

Hagensborg - 31 K
Bella Coola -38 k

A few Kilometer before Hagnesborg, we found a nice little place with warm cabins (fishing camp) -- turn right at Saloomt Trail (abondoned Coho Cafe) - a km down the road is Bailey's Bridge Cabin's and Campsite on the Bella Coola River. You may want to call in advance, as Aug thru Oct is a Coho fishing season, and a fishermans destination - Keith and Val were excellent hosts, all the necessities were covered and grounds/site facilities very accommodating. There are other accommodations, check your guide (we have no review of these accommodations - but just to name a few, Rip Rap Camping and Cabins, Grizzly...something or other. Lots of B&B's.

We did go into Bella Coola, but most of the campsites and cabins are along the Bella Coola River around Hagensborg.

This is my bumper sticker!
I have travelled Freedom Hill, and survived

Day 3, we tour! Tonight we build Big Fire!